Opened in 1906 by the Lello brothers, Livraria Lello is one of Porto’s most visited sites. The bookstore’s grand staircase, intricate plaster designs, and stained glass skylight all make Francisco Xavier Esteves’ Neo-Gothic, Art-Nouveau style building truly stunning. Although relatively small, you can easily spend an hour or two wandering around admiring all the details.
While the interior is the reason that most people visit, the exterior should not be overlooked. And trust me – you’ll have plenty of time to study it while you wait on line! Designed by Jose Bielman, the Neo-Gothic exterior facade of the bookstore features two figures on either side of the windows that represent Art and Science. Below the windows in an ornate Gothic font are the words “Lello & Irmao”, or Lello & Brother, and below that in the window are the words “Livraria Chardron”, a nod to the original owner of the bookstore, Ernesto Chardron.
The brothers’ influence is found in every inch of the bookstore, including the stained glass ceiling that incorporates the store’s motto, Decus in Labore (Dignity in Work).
The bookstore’s main attraction is its stunning red spiral staircase. Upon entering the store, the staircase is straight ahead in the center of the store and is immediately captivating. But it really must be seen from every angle to truly appreciate it. The stairway splits and spirals in both directions before meeting together and splitting again, creating a dizzying impression from above. From below you can admire the intricate designs adorning the bottom of the stairs. Although they look like ornate wood carvings, they are actually made of painted plaster.
My favorite feature is the dip at the top of the stairs. After splitting and then meeting together, the stairs split again, allowing you to enter the second floor on either side of the building. Maintaining the rounded edges that are featured throughout the staircase, the two exits to the stairway dip down in a gentle curve to the landing in the middle. The second floor is open in the center for the length of the store, and the top of the stairs looks like an upside down arched garden bridge that crosses from one side of the floor to the other.
There are numerous other design details throughout the store that make it so unique and so interesting to explore. Triangular light fixtures hang from intricately carved wooden posts. The ceilings and walls are covered with plaster designs emulating intricate wood carvings. Clay busts of famous Porto citizens line the shelves. Tracks for the book trolley are still embedded in the floor. Every square inch is covered with a unique design or architectural feature that would take days to fully explore.
While the bookstore has long been a design marvel attracting throngs of tourists, the bookstore has become even more famous in recent years, as Harry Potter-mania has taken over. Author JK Rowling lived in Porto during a portion of the time that she was writing the Harry Potter books and legend has it that she did some of her writing inside the bookstore. As is often the case though, legend and reality are quite different. She did not, in fact, pen any of her books inside these walls, but the store is widely (and more believably) said to be the inspiration for the bookstore in Harry Potter, Flourish and Blotts.
Despite the weak ties to Harry Potter, Livraria Lello remains quite popular (and rightly so), which has made it increasingly difficult to visit. In order to try to limit the number of tourists, the bookstore started charging an entry fee in 2015. It has done little to lessen the crowds. We stopped by in the morning before opening and the line was already probably more than an hour long. We ultimately ended up returning about an hour later and waiting for approximately 45 minutes to get in. There is a separate (and equally long) line to actually purchase your tickets around the side of the building, but we bought our tickets for 5 euros each from our mobile device while we waited on the entrance line. If you buy a book during your visit, your entrance fee is applied towards the price of your purchase.
For those lacking the time or patience to wait an hour or more, there is a “skip the line” ticket for between 15.90-17.90 euros each. This ticket includes a book, selected from 5 choices and available either in Portuguese or English, and allows you to enter the store immediately upon your arrival. While that is a great option to save time for an individual or a couple, it was more than we wanted to spend for a family of four to visit. (Each individual in your group must purchase their own skip the line ticket.)
But don’t let the crowds or cost deter you. Whether you choose to spend the time in line or the money to skip the line, it is worth the investment. The store is truly stunning and a visit to Livraria Lello is a unique experience that should not be missed.
